Thai Seafood

From the very earliest days of its history, Thailand has been a land of fish and rice. A vast network of inland waterways covers the country and, although seafood is a comparatively new addition to the Thai diet, freshwater fish has been a part of it for ever. An inscription on an ancient stone tells how the happiness of man can be measured by the abundance of fish and rice, and it's said that, even today, country folk, living easy-going lives, judge their contentment thus.

Cuchee Kung

• 5 dried red chilies
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 5 tablespoons shallots, chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1" root ginger, peeled and grated
• ½ teaspoon kaffir lime peel
• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
• 1 teaspoon shrimp paste (available from Asian supermarkets or specialist food-stores)
• 1 lb raw prawns
• 1 cup coconut cream
• 2 cups coconut milk
• 3 tablespoons fish sauce
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped kaffir lime leaves
• Oil

Put the chilies and salt in a mortar and grind with a pestle until fine. Add the shallots, garlic, ginger, lime peel and coriander seeds. Grind again. Add the shrimp paste and mix well. Alternatively use a liquidiser.

Deshell the prawns and pop them into boiling water until they're almost cooked.

Heat some oil in a wok. Add the curry paste and stir fry over a medium heat for 1 minute. Add the coconut cream and bring to the boil. Add the coconut milk and stir well while bringing to the boil. Add the prawns and complete the cooking. Check the seasoning and add fish sauce and sugar to taste. Serve sprinkled with lime leaves.

Thai Mussels

• 3 cups fish stock
• 1 tablespoon lime zest, grated
• ¼ cup lemon grass, very finely chopped
• 1" root ginger, peeled and grated
• 1 tablespoon wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• Oil
• The green bits of 4 spring onions, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1-2 red chilies, finely chopped
• 2" root ginger, peeled and grated
• 2 lbs mussels well-rinsed
• 1 cup coconut milk
• ½ cup coriander leaves, finely chopped
• ½ cup tomatoes, diced
• ½ lime
• Fish sauce

To make the broth, place the first 7 ingredients in a pan and bring to the boil. Simmer until the liquid has reduced to about 1 cup. Strain and set aside.

Put some oil in a wok and stir fry the spring onions, garlic, ginger and chilies for a minute or two. Add the mussels, cover and cook for 2-3 minutes.

Add the broth, cover and heat again for 1 minute. Add the coconut milk, coriander and tomato and mix well. Heat through making sure all the mussels have opened properly. Discard any that haven't.

Add a squeeze of lime juice and a splash of fish sauce, stir and serve immediately, garnished with chopped coriander.

Thai Prawn Curry

WARNING: This is very hot!

• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 3 shallots, finely chopped
• 10 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 stalk of lemongrass, sliced, and finely chopped
• 20 dried red chilies
• 1 tablespoon oil
• 3 tablespoons Thai red curry paste
• 3 cups coconut milk
• 1½ - 2 lbs prawns peeled
• Fish Sauce
• ¼ cup lime juice
• coriander leaves, finely chopped for garnish

Place the onion, shallots, garlic, lemongrass and 3 chilies in a mortar and grind to a fine paste with the pestle. Alternatively you can whiz them together in a food processor.

• Add more chilies to this paste for a hotter dish.

Heat some oil in a wok and add the ground paste and the curry paste. Stir fry for 5-10 minutes. Add the coconut milk and the remaining chilies. Bring to the boil and add the prawns. Simmer gently for about 5-6 minutes or until the prawns are pink and cooked. Add the fish sauce and lime juice to taste. Serve immediately garnished with coriander.

You can prepare the curry sauce in advance up to the point where you add the coconut milk. Allow it to cool and store in the fridge until you're ready to assemble the dish.

Thai Soup

Unlike many of the soups you may be familiar with Thai soups tend to be clear and spicy. Many of them use fish sauce, which you should be able to get at an Asian supermarket or specialist grocery store. If you can't, you could try a mixture of anchovy paste and soy sauce in its place.

Tom Ka Gai (Thai Coconut & Chicken Soup)

• 1 pint coconut milk
• 1 pint chicken stock
• 2" root ginger, peeled and grated
• 4 lemongrass stalks, finely sliced
• Zest of 1 lime
• 1 large chicken breast, cubed
• 2 green chillies, cored, deseeded and finely chopped
• 4 teaspoons fish sauce
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• Coriander and lime for garnish

Place the coconut milk, stock, ginger, lemongrass and lime zest in a saucepan. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the chunks of chicken, chillies, fish sauce and sugar. Return to the boil and simmer for another 8-10 minutes or until the chicken is cooked.

Serve immediately garnished with some chopped coriander leaves and a squeeze of lime. It's a good idea to avoid the lemongrass stalks when dishing up.

Kaen Ron

• 4 oz pork tenderloin
• 4 oz chicken breast
• 2 pints chicken stock
• 8 dried mushrooms
• ½ cup water
• 1 onion, finely sliced
• 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 3 teaspoons fish sauce
• 2 oz bean thread noodles
• 4 oz raw prawns
• ½ cup cucumber, peeled and cubed
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 2-3 tablespoons chopped coriander

Soak the mushrooms in the water for at least 20 minutes before using.

Cube the pork and chicken and put in a saucepan with the stock. Bring to the boil. Add the thinly sliced mushrooms along with any remaining water, onion, garlic and fish sauce, and simmer gently for about 20 minutes or until the meat is just cooked. Add the noodles, prawns and cucumber and continue to simmer until the prawns are cooked - they'll no longer be translucent.

Gradually stir in the beaten eggs allowing it to cook as fine strands. Serve immediately with a garnish of chopped coriander.

Tom Yum Goong (Sour & Spicy Lemongrass Fish Soup)

• 4 cups water
• 2 stalks lemongrass, cut into 1" pieces
• ½" root ginger, peeled and grated
• 4 dried kaffir lime leaves (or use 3 fresh if you can get them)
• 1 tablespoon tamarind paste
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• ¾ b raw prawns
• 12 Thai chili peppers
• 1 small onion, chopped
• 2 tablespoon roasted chili paste
• 1 can straw mushrooms
• 1 ripe tomato
• Juice of 1 lime
• Coriander

Place the water, lemongrass, ginger, lime leaves, tamarind paste, fish sauce and prawns in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Simmer for about 3 minutes. Add the onion, chili paste and straw mushrooms. Return to the boil and simmer for another 6-8 minutes or until the prawns are cooked. Add the chilies and chopped tomato. Remove from the heat and add the lime juice. Season to taste with extra fish sauce if desired, and serve garnished with chopped coriander.

• Thai chili peppers are small, red and very hot! You may want to reduce the number to taste.
• You can use a firm white fish instead of prawns
• Fish sauce, roasted chili paste and straw mushrooms can be found in Asian supermarkets.

Now this one's not really authentic Thai but a yummy soup nevertheless.

Hint of Thai Squash Soup

• 1 large butternut squash
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 can coconut milk
• 1-2 teaspoons red Thai curry paste
• Salt
• Coriander

Cut the squash into large chunks. Pour the oil into a baking dish and toss the squash in it until well-coated. Bake for about 1 hour or until the squash is tender. Allow to cool until you're able to handle it. Scoop all the flesh into a pan and add the coconut milk and curry paste. Stir well and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and blend in a liquidiser and then return to the pan.

Gradually add enough stock to give you soup of a good consistency. Bring to the boil and season to taste. Serve garnished with chopped coriander.

Thai Noodles

You won't find oodles of noodles in Thai cooking! Although they do feature, they're less of a presence than in Chinese menus. The most famous and popular Thai noodle dish is Pad Thai, the recipe for which can be found on our Classic Thai Dishes - Main Courses.

Noodles or Goi Tiew may be made of egg or rice. Recipes will generally specify which to use, but one of the main features of Thai cooking - and indeed any cooking - is that you use what's fresh, what's available and what you like.

Rad Nah (Noodles in gravy)

• ¼ lb pork, finely sliced
• 4 tablespoons cornflour
• 2½ cups water
• ½ lb pak choi
• ¾ lb rice noodles
• 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons light soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon yellow bean sauce
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 6 tablespoons oil

Toss the pork in 1 tablespoon of cornflour and set aside.

Roughly cut the pak choi into largeish pieces (2"). Break up and separate the noodles. Place in a bowl with 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce and mix well. Microwave for about 3 minutes or until soft.

If you don't have a microwave, heat 4 tablespoons oil in a wok and add the noodles and soy sauce. Stir fry until the noodles are cooked.

Set aside the noodles and keep warm. Heat the remaining oil in the wok. Add the garlic and pork. Stir fry until the pork is cooked. Mix the remaining cornflour with the water to a runny paste. Add it to the wok, stirring all the time. Add the light soy sauce, yellow bean sauce and sugar.

• If the sauce is too thick, add more water.
• If it's not thick enough, make more cornflour and water paste to thicken it.

Add the pak choi. Stir it to heat through then serve immediately with the noodles.

Serve with condiments of fish sauce, sugar, black pepper and pickled peppers.

To pickle peppers, finely slice some green chillies and marinate in white vinegar.

• This will keep for days.
• Don't use the very hot small red chillies.

Mee Krob (Crispy noodles with sweet and sour sauce)

• ¾ cup rice noodles
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• ¾ cup pork, finely shredded
• ¾ cup raw prawns, chopped
• 1 tablespoon yellow bean sauce
• 1 tablespoon white vinegar
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 4 tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon chilli powder
• 1 tablespoon lime juice
• 1 fresh chilli
• 3 spring onions
• Oil

First fry the noodles until crisp. If they're thick, soak first in water for about 15 minutes. After frying, drain and set aside.

Heat about ¼ cup oil in a wok. Add the garlic and fry lightly, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the pork, prawns, yellow bean sauce, vinegar, fish sauce, sugar, and chilli powder. Cook, stirring, until the pork and prawns are cooked. Mix in the lime juice.

Add the noodles and mix in well. When heated through, serve, garnished with sliced chilli, grated rind of a lime and chopped spring onions. Traditionally this dish is served with bean sprouts.

Now this one's not strictly an authentic Thai recipe but one that uses egg noodles and Thai curry paste.

Thai Vegetable noodles

• 6 spring onions, finely chopped
• 2 green chillies, cored, deseeded and finely chopped
• 1" root ginger, peeled and grated
• 1 tablespoon Thai green curry paste
• 6 oz mange tout, sliced
• 8 oz mushrooms, sliced
• 3 pak choi, roughly shredded
• 1 dessertspoon dark soy sauce
• Handful coriander leaves, finely chopped
• Salt and pepper
• oil
• 8 oz noodles

Heat some oil in a wok and stir fry the spring onions, chillies and ginger for about 3 minutes. Add the curry paste and mix well. Add the mange tout and mushrooms and stir fry for 2 minutes. Mix in the pak choi, soy sauce and coriander. Stir until just heated through. Season to taste.

Meanwhile have the noodles cooking according to the instructions on the packet. Drain. Serve the vegetables on top of the noodles.

If you like extra sauce, mix 4 tablespoons Thai green curry paste with 4 dessertspoons natural yogurt. Mix well and heat gently. Drizzle over the vegetables.

In The Vietnamese Kitchen

Did you know that most accidents in the home happen in the kitchen? Vietnamese cooks know it. They have a constant reminder of the dangers they face as they prepare food for their families.

A small altar to Tao Quan, the god of the hearth, takes pride of place in the Vietnamese kitchen. The story goes that Tao Quan burned his trousers by standing too close to the cooking fire. At each lunar new year, he will return to heaven to give a report on the family to the Emperor of Jade. In order to make sure that he gives a good report, the family will present him with gifts of fruit and a special ceremonial costume - without trousers.

In the kitchen

Traditionally - and even today in rural communities - most of the cooking was done over an open hearth. One member of the family was assigned to keep a watch on the flames to ensure they didn't go out. Food preparation was done on a wet tiled floor near the stove, where all the dishes and utensils were washed before being used. The cook would squat, legs curled under, on the floor.

As modernisation encroaches and kitchens are evolving, fridges, sinks and worktops are being installed in many houses, but the cooking methods and styles remain largely traditional.

The typical kitchen still doesn't have an oven and food is either cooked in a wok or claypot, or grilled over the open flame. Soups are made in a large pot, and because rice is such a vital part of the Vietnamese diet, a rice steamer will be found in every kitchen.

Along with the wok, there'll be the usual accessories of a spatula and brush, plus a mortar and pestle, and a collection of knives, along with a thick wooden chopping board. One particular knife that may be found in a Vietnamese kitchen is one with a double-sided blade, used for creating decorative shapes from fruit and vegetables.

The Food

The Vietnamese diet is largely based on rice, fish and fresh vegetables. Little oil is used in the cooking; fish is gently cooked and lightly seasoned; vegetables are often served raw and salads are never over-dressed. Typical desserts involve fresh fruit and home-made yogurt.

During the Period 1940 -1980, Vietnam was a troubled country and food shortages were common. It was hard to get enough rice to keep a family fed. But from about the mid-1980s, peace and the return of many who'd fled the country led gradually to an upturn in its fortunes. Food, good traditional Vietnamese food, was on the menu again.

Today

Today it is being adapted to fit in with the new era, for example, leaner cuts of meat are being used. As today's chefs experiment, modern variations can be found on restaurant menus alongside old-fashioned favourites - but with a modern twist. So thit kho to (pork slowly simmered in a claypot), a dish of peasant origin, will be found in upmarket restaurants in Hanoi.

The History

Traditionally Vietnamese food has involved lengthy preparation and cooking processes. During the reign of Emperor Tu Duc (1848-1883) food served in the imperial palace was very grand. He was proud man and insisted that he would not eat the same food as the peasants. The land around Hue, where the imperial palace was situated was less diverse in its produce than other parts of the country so the emperor's chefs had to be very creative. There has lately been a resurgence of interest from Vietnamese chefs in dishes from that period, and some restaurants don't open until late in the day because of the time involved in preparing the food.

In the Eest

But for those of us who want to try Vietnamese cooking at home, it doesn't have to be that time-consuming. With food processors and ingredients now more easily available, we too can enjoy the taste of Vietnam.

• Fish sauce, nuoc mam, is an essential ingredient and can be obtained in Asian supermarkets, as can dried rice papers that are used for a variety of rolls.
• To retain the distinct flavour that comes from grilling over an open hearth, use a wood or charcoal barbecue.

In the Thai Kitchen

Compared to its British equivalent, a Thai kitchen is sparsely furnished - but the food that comes out of it is likely to be fresher and more flavoursome than many of the ready-meals dished up elsewhere.

The typical Thai kitchen will be a plain room, with window gaps in the walls for ventilation and light - and mosquitoes! - and a cement floor. The main feature is the stove. This will usually be made of cement or brick and will have a space inside it, in which is placed a pan of burning charcoal. Above that there'll be a hole on which the wok can sit.

You won't find an oven in a Thai kitchen so all the foods are cooked on the stove. A wok is used for stir-frying while a grid that is lain across the stove above the charcoal fire is used for grilling.

Something else you won't find, at least not in most homes in the country, is a fridge. Instead there'll be an old-style food safe, made of wood and wire mesh, in which the cook will keep garlic, chillies and a few other non-perishable goods. Most of the food used day by day is brought fresh from the market.

Sometimes the legs of the safe will be standing in saucers of water to stop ants climbing up and getting into the food.

Another piece of equipment that we would think is essential, a sink with running water, isn't always present in a Thai kitchen either. In many places water still has to be collected in large clay jars.

Around the walls there'll be a few shelves or hooks for storing kitchen utensils, and this is where the true nature of Thai cookery is revealed.

Rice

Gkin kao, the Thai for "to eat", actually means "to eat rice", so you can imagine that rice cooking and storing plays an important role in the kitchen.

• In villages that have electricity the one thing the cook will really benefit from is an electric rice cooker. A Thai meal always includes rice so a vast amount of it is cooked and eaten; anything that makes a cook's life easier is greatly appreciated.
• Alternatively a rice pot, a clay pot with a lid, is used - and kept exclusively - for cooking rice.
• Yet another alternative for cooking rice is a steamer that may be made of clay or aluminium and sits where the wok would above the charcoal.
• A rice grinder is used to make rice flour.
• A rice basket will keep rice warm for some time.

Other utensils likely to be found in a typical Thai kitchen:

• A well-seasoned wok is the prime cooking tool;
• For stir-frying wooden spatulas are used;
• A mortar and pestle made from stone or pottery are invaluable for grinding spices;
• A grater specifically for coconut, an essential ingredient in many Thai dishes;
• A chopping block;
• A bamboo strainer;
• A supply of skewers for grilling meat;
• Coconut shell spoons in varying sizes;
• Banana leaves for wrapping and serving food.

Cooking the Thai meal in the Thai kitchen

Preparation is the important thing. As many Thai dishes are stir-fried it's important to have all the ingredients chopped and ready to hand when cooking. The cooking itself won't take long if everything is prepared beforehand. And remember: the Thai cook will taste as cooking progresses, always checking for the right balance of sweet and sour, hot and salty.

Cooking Chinese Dim Sum

Literally meaning ‘touch your heart’ Dim Sum has always basically been snack food. The custom originated in Chinese tea houses, but while we in the West may like to have a piece of cake with our cup of afternoon tea, dim sum is just as likely to include a fried prawn or a meat dumpling as it is a custard tart.

You probably won’t find dim sum on the menu of your local Chinese restaurant; instead you’ll need to seek out a restaurant that specializes in, and only serves, dim sum. Then, like tapas in Spain, you can pick and choose the individual bits that you fancy and make a complete snack food meal of your dim sum.

Little Moneybags

• 24 wonton skins (from supermarkets or Asian grocers)
• Filling
• 4 oz prawns, chopped
• 8 oz minced pork
• 2 oz green cabbage
• 3 spring onions, finely chopped
• 1 egg, beaten
• 2 tablespoons cornflour
• 2 teaspoons light soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon oyster sauce
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• Oil for deep frying

Combine all the filling ingredients. Place spoonfuls on each wonton skin. Damp the edges of the skins. Pull up the edges to make little dumplings (or money-bags). Press the edges to seal.

Pour oil into the wok and deep fry the dumplings a few at a time until cooked and golden-brown. Drain well on kitchen towel. Serve hot with a dipping sauce. Mix vegetables, tofu and seasoning for a vegetarian version.

Chinese Butterfly Prawns

• 8 raw jumbo prawns
• 1 tablespoon sherry
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• 2 tablespoons cornflour (mixed with a little five spice powder if you like)
• Oil for frying

Peel the prawns (if necessary) and, using a sharp knife, remove the black spidery veins. When you’ve done that, using the knife again, make a deep cut the length of each prawn along its back. Flatten it out so it looks like a butterfly. Repeat for each prawn. Sprinkle the flattened prawns with sherry. Dip each prawn first in the beaten egg then in the cornflour.

Heat enough oil for deep frying in the wok. Fry the prawns, a few at a time, until crisp and golden. Drain on kitchen towel. Serve garnished with coriander leaves with a dipping sauce.

Char Siu Bao

• 1 sachet (7g) fast acting yeast
• ½ cup of sugar
• ½ cup warm water
• 2 cups strong white bread flour
• 1 egg, beaten
• 3 tablespoons oil
• ½ teaspoon salt

Sieve the flour and salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the yeast, sugar, oil, water and about half the beaten egg. Using your hands begin to draw it all together. Knead the dough until it comes away from the sides of the bowl. Sprinkle flour on the work surface and continue kneading until the dough is smooth and elastic. Put it back in the bowl and leave, covered with a damp cloth, in a warm place until it has trebled in size.

While the dough is rising, make the filling.

• 5 tablespoons chicken stock
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
• 2½ teaspoons sugar
• 2¼ teaspoons cornflour
• 2 teaspoons tomato ketchup
• 1½ teaspoons dark soy sauce
• Pinch ground white pepper
• 1 tablespoon oil
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• ¾ cup barbecued pork, cut into ½” pieces
• 1½ teaspoons sherry
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil

Mix together the stock, oyster sauce, sugar, cornflour, ketchup, soy sauce and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wok. Add the onion and stir fry for about 2 minutes. Add the pork and continue stir frying for another 2 minutes.

Add the sherry and the pre-mixed stock and sauces. Cook stirring until the sauce thickens. Mix in the sesame oil. Set aside to cool.

When the dough has risen, take it from the bowl and knead lightly. Roll into a cylinder shape and divide into 12 pieces. Work a piece of dough into a ball. (While you’re working on 1 piece, keep the others in the bowl, covered.) You should keep working the dough until, if you press your finger into it, it will spring back.

Make a well in the ball of dough. Place about 1 - 1½ tablespoons in the well, and then pinch the dough closed. Place the bun, seal-side down on a greased baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining balls. Place them at least 2” apart on the baking sheet to allow room for them to expand.

Leave the buns, covered with a damp cloth, in a warm place to rise for about 1 hour. Pre-heat the oven to 180oC, gas mark 4.

Using the remaining beaten egg (with a little added water if necessary), brush the tops of the buns. Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden brown. If you want the buns to remain soft, brush lightly with oil immediately after baking.

Chinese Soup

There’s an old Chinese saying, “to win a man's heart, a woman must first learn how to cook a good pot of soup."You’ll probably gather from that that soup is an important part of a Chinese meal! It is usually served in place of water or tea as an accompanying drink that is supped during the meal. In some Chinese homes, it will still be served in a communal bowl, into which people can dip their spoons as they wish.

Soup served in this manner would be of the thin variety as opposed to the thick soups that are especially common in Cantonese cookery. Two of the most famous of these slow-cooked soups are Shark’s Fin and Bird’s Nest, which both demonstrate the Chinese determination to waste nothing that can be eaten!

Monosodium glutamate (MSG) is frequently used in Chinese cooking to bring out flavours but we prefer to avoid using it. What is needed for a good thin soup is a well-flavoured stock.

Easy Home-Made Stock

After your roast chicken dinner, break up the leftover carcass and place in a large saucepan with the giblets, 2 chopped onions, 2 chopped sticks of celery, a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley and a few peppercorns. Cover with water and bring to the boil. Allow to simmer gently for about 2 hours. Season with salt, strain and cool. It will keep for about 3 days in the fridge.

Chicken noodle soup

• 3 skinless, boneless chicken fillets
• 3 tablespoons dark soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons sherry
• 2 tablespoons sesame oil
• 3 cups green cabbage, finely chopped
• 4 spring onions, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons root ginger, grated
• 1 red chilli, cored, de-seeded and finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons tahini (sesame seed paste available from Asian grocers and delicatessens)
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 3 pints chicken stock (fresh or made with stock cubes)
• 8 oz Chinese noodles
• Handful chopped coriander

Slice the chicken into stir-fry type strands. Place in a bowl with the soy sauce, sherry and 1 tablespoon sesame oil. Mix well and leave to marinate for 30 minutes. Heat remaining oil in a wok. Add the cabbage and spring onions and stir fry for 3 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger and chilli and continue to stir fry for another 2 minutes or until the cabbage is tender.

Add stock and bring to the boil. Add tahini, sugar, chicken and marinade. Simmer until chicken is cooked through (about 5 minutes). Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the packet. Add to the soup and season to taste. Serve sprinkled with coriander.

Hot and Sour Soup (vegetarian)

• 10 Chinese dried mushrooms
• 2 pints water
• 3 leeks, washed and cut into strips
• 1 lb tofu, cubed
• 1 tablespoon root ginger, grated
• 2 cups bean sprouts
• ½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce
• 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
• ¼ teaspoon black pepper
• 2 tablespoons cornflour
• 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
• 2 spring onions, finely chopped

Place mushrooms in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to stand for 30 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, reserving the liquid, and cut into strips. Pour water and mushroom marinade into a wok. Add the leeks, tofu, ginger, bean sprouts, Tabasco, vinegar and pepper. Bring to a boil.

Mix the cornflour with the soy sauce and a little water to make a paste. Stir into the soup and return to the boil. Simmer until soup thickens Serve sprinkled with spring onions.

This can be prepared ahead and frozen but don’t freeze the tofu. Add it when you’re ready to use. Bring to the boil and heat through.

Using Coconut in Asian Cooking

There’s an old saying amongst South Sea islanders: “He who plants a coconut tree plants food and drink vessels and clothing, a home for himself and a heritage for his children.” It’s true that coconuts are incredibly versatile and useful fruits. About one third of the world’s population regard this highly nutritious foodstuff as a staple, important both to diet and economy.

The tall coconut palm tree originated in Southeast Asia, probably in Malaysia. It appears in records from very early history but it wasn’t known in the western world until the 6th century when it was imported into Egypt from India. Early Spanish explorers gave it the name coco (meaning head) because, with its three indentations, it resembled a face. Later on, when shipping and trade was more widespread, coconuts were imported into Britain and sold cheaply – so cheaply that they could be used as targets in coconut shies in fairgrounds.

Today coconuts are cultivated all over the world in tropical regions. Coconut products e.g. milk and oil provide a valuable source of revenue.

The Coconut As The Tree of Life

Claims for the health-giving benefits of the coconut have long been made. In the South Seas the palm is called the Tree of Life and believed to be a cure for everything from baldness to syphilis to flu. It’s only recently that the claims have been scientifically investigated and proved, in some part, to be true. Coconut oil is rich in lauric acid, which is known to have anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral properties, and, although high in saturated fat, the fatty acids present in coconut oil do not raise cholesterol levels.

The coconut palm is also a valued source of food. From a simple refreshing drink to an alcoholic beverage to a milk popular for use in curries, the coconut provides it all. Coconut water is drunk straight from the fruit; the coconut flesh is used for thickening sauces; and the oil, pressed from the flesh, is used for frying and in toiletries. The coconut can even provide its own bowl from which to eat or drink, and the husks can be used as fuel for the fire. A multi-purpose creation indeed!

Using Coconut Milk

Coconut milk is a vital ingredient in much Asian cookery. In Southern India coconut milk is used, sometimes in conjunction with yoghurt, for many of the dishes. The state of Kerala is particularly renowned for its coconut-flavoured sauces.

The cookery of Sri Lanka is another that makes good use of the coconut. Almost all of its curries call for the inclusion of at least a spoonful of coconut milk. And in Thai cookery, the word, curry, is virtually synonymous for a sauce made from spicy coconut milk.

In Britain we can buy coconut milk in tins or as creamed coconut in blocks. Creamed coconut needs to be dissolved in hot water to the correct consistency (follow instructions on the packet but approximately 200g per half litre of water for a thick milk). Coconut milk powder is also available but because it contains extra chemicals to stop it forming lumps, it tends to be less satisfactory.

Make Your Own Coconut Milk

To make your own coconut milk, first find a coconut. Break it open and grate the coconut flesh into a bowl. Cover with 1 cup of hot, not boiling, water and leave to stand until the water has cooled down. Strain, into another bowl, through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Squeeze the coconut in the cheesecloth until it’s as dry as possible. Store the coconut milk in the fridge.

The grated coconut still contains most of the fat and flavour so spread it out and leave to dry. Then store in an air-tight container and use for toasting or toppings.

Using Herbs In Asian Cooking

Chambers Dictionary defines a herb as an aromatic plant used in cookery; a spice it says, is any aromatic vegetable substance used for seasoning food. Hmm. What we generally think of as herbs don’t play as large a part in Asian cooking as spices do - although there are some spices that could equally well be called herbs! Lemon grass, for example, is to be found on our Spices page, but could be here. Let’s look now at three herbs that are used in Asian cooking. One will be very familiar to you – although possibly as a spice - while the other two may be less well-known.

Using Coriander In Asian Cooking

In a cave somewhere in Israel, archaeologists found coriander seeds over 8,000 years old, and the Bible tells us that manna, the bread given by God to the wandering Israelis, was ‘white like coriander seed,’(Exodus 16:31). The ancient Chinese, meanwhile, believed that coriander seeds could bestow immortality.

When the Romans brought coriander to Britain it was already being used throughout the Mediterranean area by Greek physicians. The Romans used it to preserve their meat and to flavour their bread.

• You might see it being sold or referred to as cilantro.
• It’s available in ground, seed or leaf form, and has a lemony-gingery flavour.
• To freeze coriander, chop the leaves finely and place in an ice cube tray with a little water. Take out a cube or two when needed.

Making Use Of Curry Leaves In Asian Cooking

The plant that produces curry leaves grows naturally in India, Thailand and Sri Lanka. Although it’s been grown for personal use for some time, it’s only fairly recently that its cultivation on a large scale has begun.

It’s been discovered that curry leaves contain a chemical compound that may possibly provide an effective treatment for diabetes. It’s also used in traditional medicine to treat skin and digestive conditions.

• The curry leaves have a spicy citrus smell and a warm lemony taste. They are mostly added as a final touch to Indian dishes.

• In Indian stores you may find them labelled as Meetha Neem or Kari Patta.
• You can freeze curry leaves as you would coriander leaves.

Betel And Asian Cooking

The betel plant is a native of Malaysia and is used in Asian cooking as a wrap. Like a vine or banana leaf it may be wrapped around spicy minced meat; or the betel may enfold a mixture of spices such as cinnamon, cloves and cardamom and be chewed like gum.

• Betel chewing is a habit of about one-tenth of the world's population, but recent research has linked habitual betel chewing to oral cancer.
• Betel leaves are said to have powerful antiseptic properties. If it’s chewed after a meal it sweetens the breath. Ritually it was chewed by a wife before welcoming her husband home with its properties as both deodorant and aphrodisiac …
• On the Indian sub-continent, it’s considered very polite to offer your guests betel morsels (pan-supari).

Grow Your Own Herbs

Coriander and curry leaves can both be grown on your window-sill. Coriander seeds are easily available from garden centres. Follow the instructions on the packet. Pick the leaves as soon as they’re ready and make sure the pot or window-box is well-drained. Coriander doesn’t respond well to over-watering. When the coriander has flowered you can dry the seeds to re-sow. Cut off the flower heads and place them in a paper bag. Leave them, preferably hanging upside-down, in a cool and airy place. When the seeds have dried off, store them in an airtight container.

Curry leaves can be propagated from stem cuttings. You’ll need some fresh curry leaf stalks, not too young and green, and not too old and hard. Strip the stalk of its lower leaves and cut it at an angle just above a node, then dip in some rooting powder or plant direct into small pots containing a mix of potting compost and gravel.

Quick & Easy Indian Recipes

Don’t be put off when you look at an Indian recipe! Although some recipes can look very long the method is usually quite simple. It’s the list of ingredients that will make it appear long and intimidating. And that’s only because it’s likely to include a large number of different spices. If you keep a range of spices in your pantry, you’ll be ready to tackle many Indian recipes but remember that spices don’t keep well. Buy them in the smallest possible quantity and, where you can, buy them in their whole form and grind them down as you need them.

As well as a selection of spices, we recommend that you keep the following in your kitchen:

• A tube of garlic puree;
• Tins of chickpeas;
• Dried lentils;
• Tinned tomatoes;
• Ginger root (this freezes well);
• Challis (they too freeze well);
• Tomato puree;
• Jar of curry paste.

Quick Aloo

• 3 large potatoes, peeled and cubed
• 2 tablespoons oil
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon chilli powder
• 1 teaspoon coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground mango (amchoor – available from Asian groceries)
• ½ teaspoon turmeric
• ½ teaspoon garam masala
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
• 1 cup water
• Salt to taste

Heat the oil in a thick-based frying-pan. Add the cumin seeds and toss them around in the hot oil. Add the remaining spices and salt and mix well. Stir in the potato cubes and make sure they’re well-coated. Add the tomatoes and water. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently until the potato is cooked. Stir occasionally.

Lamb Masala

• 1 lb 4 oz lamb neck fillet, cubed

Marinade

• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1 teaspoon coriander
• 1 teaspoon cumin
• 1 teaspoon chilli powder
• 1 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 teaspoon garam masala
• ½ teaspoon cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon oil

Mix together all the ingredients for the marinade in a large bowl. Stir in the lamb pieces, making sure they’re well-coated. Set aside to marinate for 1 hour at room temperature. Meanwhile soak bamboo skewers in water.

Thread the lamb cubes onto the skewers and cook under a moderate grill until done to your taste.

Alternatively, cook the lamb on a baking sheet in the oven, 200oC, gas mark 6, for about 20 minutes.

Chickpea Curry

• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons oil
• ¼ pint vegetable stock
• 2 tins chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 2 teaspoons garam masala
• 1 teaspoon coriander
• 2 teaspoons cumin
• 3 tablespoons tomato or mango chutney
• 2 tins tomatoes

Heat the oil and fry the onion until soft. Mix in the spices and, fry for 1 minute, stirring. Add the chickpeas, tomatoes, chutney and stock and stir well. Bring to the boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped coriander.

Quick Hot Chicken Curry

• 2 tablespoons oil
• 2 onions, roughly chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon madras curry powder
• ½ teaspoon paprika
• 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 4 skinned, boneless chicken breasts, cut into bite-size cubes and seasoned with salt and pepper
• 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
• 1 tablespoon tomato puree
• 4 tablespoons coconut milk
• 1 lemon

Fry the onion in oil until soft. Add the garlic, chilli and spices, stir well and fry for 2 minutes. Stir in the chicken pieces and make sure they are well-coated. Add the tomatoes and tomato puree, bring to the boil and simmer gently for 4 minutes. Add the coconut milk, bring back to the boil and simmer for a further 3 minutes. Add a squirt of lemon juice. Stir and serve.

To make this dish simpler:

• Replace the curry powder and spices with a ready-made paste;
• Replace the fresh tomatoes with tinned;
• Use whole chicken breasts but cook for longer.

And for a milder flavour, use a milder curry powder, such as korma, and leave out the chilli. To make it hotter, increase the chilli!

Asian Food Folklore

Like all countries, China, India and Thailand have their own folk tales. This one tells how the phoenix brought salt to China.

The Treasure of the Feng-Huang (Phoenix)

Once upon a time in China, a poor peasant man was working hard in the marshy fields. He stopped to stretch and as he looked up he was amazed to see a phoenix in amongst the reeds. The phoenix is a magnificent bird with tail feathers as brightly-coloured as a peacock's and a scarlet-red breast and head.

There is an old saying that where a phoenix is seen, treasure will be found. The poor peasant was very excited and ran towards the bird but, of course, the phoenix flew away.

The peasant was undeterred and started to dig where the phoenix had been, saying, 'There must be treasure here!' He dug and he dug but all he could find was earth. 'Then this must be the treasure,' he said, shaking his head in puzzlement.

He went straight home to tell his wife and to show her the treasure. 'Look,' he said, 'holding out the clod of earth. I have brought you treasure!' 'How can it be treasure?' his wife asked. 'It's just earth.' 'I don't know,' said the poor peasant, 'but the phoenix was standing over it so it must be.'

It was the law of China that any treasure that was found belonged to the emperor, so the peasant packed up the clod of earth, put on his best clothes and went to see the Chinese Emperor. When he told the guards that he had treasure he was allowed into the Emperor's presence. He bowed down and the unwrapped the earth. 'See, sir, what treasure the phoenix revealed to me!'

The Emperor was very angry, thinking that the man was trying to make a fool of him, and he had the man arrested and executed.

The parcel of earth was left on a shelf in the kitchen.

Some time later, one of the Chinese Emperor's cooks was taking a bowl of soup that he had prepared to the Emperor and, as he was passing the shelf, a little of the earth fell into the soup. The cook began to panic and was about to go back to get a fresh bowl when the Emperor shouted that he wanted his soup immediately. The cook had no choice but to serve his master straightaway.

When the Emperor tasted the soup, the cook cowered, expecting him to be angry but, instead, the Emperor beamed. 'This is the best soup I have ever tasted! What have you put in it?'

The cook explained about the earth and China's Emperor demanded that it be brought to him. He dug his fingers in the soil and found, sticking to them, tiny white grains. 'This must be the treasure the phoenix was telling the man of,' he said, for he recalled the peasant's story.

The Emperor was very sorry that he had treated the peasant so unjustly and he put the peasant's son in charge of the land where the phoenix had been seen, where they now started to mine for salt.

And thus it was that the phoenix was responsible for introducing salt to China.

India

In India rice is not only a staple of the diet, it also has symbolism.

• It's said that cooked rice should be like brothers: the grains should be close but not stuck together.
• Throwing rice at weddings symbolises fertility or, more often today, prosperity.
• The first food offered by a bride to her husband is rice; it's also the first solid food given to young babies, sometimes by a Buddhist priest.

Thailand

The New Year begins in April and is celebrated at Songkran, a festival that largely involves throwing water! But it was also tradition to serve at banquets a special flower-scented rice dish that involved great care in the making. Every grain of rice was first checked to make sure it was in perfect condition.

Vietnamese Main Course Dishes

Vietnamese food is delicious and relatively quick and easy to make. Ensuring a balance between spice, herbs and meat produces a taste that is unique amongst Oriental food.

In the south part of Vietnam servings are generally larger and hot chillies will often be used instead of black pepper to give food a spicy kick. Fruit can, on occasion, also be used in some meat and vegetable dishes, due to its availability in the region.

Traditional herbs and salads are often used to add texture, freshness and flavour to dishes. A table salad will often be made up of sliced cucumber, rice, lime wedges, lettuce leaves and shredded carrot to name but a few ingredients.

Vietnamese Chicken Curry

Vietnamese chicken curry is delicious and can be prepared in approximately an hour.

To serve 2 you will need

• 2 large chicken joints that have been halved
• 1 1/2 teaspoons of medium curry powder
• 1/2 a teaspoon of sugar
• A small amount of salt and pepper
• A clove of chopped garlic
• A tablespoon of vegetable oil
• A bay leaf
• 200ml of coconut milk
• A carrot that has been cut into thick slices
• 2 potatoes that have been peeled and cubed
• An onion that has been cut into wedges
• Lemon grass that has been soaked for approximately 1/2 an hour and cut into 1 inch sections

First take the chicken meat and place it in a large bowl. Next add sugar, salt, curry powder and pepper in with the chicken and ensure that you mix the ingredients well together. Once mixed you should leave the ingredients for approximately 1 1/2 hours, allowing them to marinate. Once marinated take a large saucepan and heat the oil. Next add the potatoes to the saucepan and, using a high heat, ensure that they are brown all over.

After browning remove the potatoes from the saucepan and place on one side. You then need to pour all but 2 tablespoons of oil from the pan before heating up the pan on a high setting and adding the bay leaf, lemon grass, onion and garlic. These should be cooked for approximately 1 minute, during which time they should be stirred constantly.

Fried Chicken

You then need to add the chicken and this should be fried for approximately 7 minutes on all sides. Next take 250ml of water, along with the carrot, and mix well together before bringing to the boil. Once brought to the boil reduce the heat and simmer, after first covering the saucepan, for approximately 15 minutes. During this time you should stir the contents twice. Once you have done this the next stage is to add the fried potatoes with coconut milk and 130ml of water. Mix these well together and simmer for approximately 20 minutes. Rice is often served with this dish.

Braised Pork and Steamed Rice

Pork is also a popular meat in Vietnam and braised pork, served with steamed rice, is delicious.

To serve 2 you will need

• 750g of pork shoulder, ensuring that the skin and fat is left on
• A teaspoon of vinegar
• 2 tablespoons of oil
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 inch of galangal
• 1 inch of turmeric
• A chopped onion
• A tablespoon of fish sauce
• 7 peppercorns
• A cup of water
• A teaspoon of shrimp paste

First take the galangal and turmeric and thinly slice them before pounding them, using a mortar and pestle, with the peppercorns. Once you have done this remove the galangal from the mortar and pestle and continue pounding after adding the shrimp paste with garlic.

Once the ingredients have been well pounded add there fish sauce and sugar before placing to one side in a large bowl. Next take the pork meat and, ensuring that it is facing skin side up, place on a grilling tray and cook under a hot grill until brown and the skin is beginning to crackle. Then take the pork and turn it over until the meat browns. Once cooled take the pork and cut into medium pieces.

Marinate the Pork

You then need to marinate the pork for approximately 1 hour in the spice paste mixture. Drain the pork, but ensure that you keep the marinade, and pat dry the meat. You then need to take a pan and heat the oil before adding the onion and pork and cooking at a high temperature until the contents are browned. Any excess oil then needs to be removed from the pan and add marinade, water and vinegar .

This should then be brought to the boil before being covered and simmered for approximately 1 hour, by which time the pork should be tender. You should then cook for a further 10-15 minutes with the pan uncovered. This should enable the sauce to thicken. You then just have to serve with steamed rice.

Asian Food Spices

Spice is nice! We’ll go further than that and say spice is vital. Spices have always played an important part in food preparation. Before we had fridges spices helped to preserve food; and many have been acclaimed for their medicinal purposes. But most importantly, as far as we’re concerned, spices are important for the flavour, aroma and colour they add to our food.

Spices can come from seeds, flowers, bark, roots and fruit; the one thing they have is common is that they bring something special to our cookery.

How to Store

Spices can be kept in airtight containers in a cool dark cupboard for 6 months (ground) or 12 months (whole).

If you’re like us, you’ll have a shelf full of glass jars of spices. You’ll have opened them, used a spoonful and … that’s it. At least once a year it’s a good idea to have a clearout. Throw out any that have passed their best-by date, or have lost their smell.

If you can buy whole spices and grind them yourself when you need them, you’ll be adding a much fresher flavour to your food. Use a pestle and mortar or a small coffee grinder – but reserve it for spice use if you don’t want strange tasting coffee!

Some experts recommend toasting spices before grinding to further enhance the flavour. Place the seeds in a small dry saucepan and shake over a low heat until lightly toasted. It won’t take long. Allow to cool before grinding. And when you buy spices, look for the smallest quantities you can find. Better to buy little and often.

Different Spices

You’ll be familiar with most of the spices that are used in Asian cookery but here are a few ingredients that might be a little less familiar.

Lemon Grass
Has a gingery lemon flavour. Rather like spring onion in appearance, it can be used whole or in slices. If using whole, remove the top leafy bits and then bash the bulb to release the aromatic oils. It goes particularly well with coconut milk, chicken and seafood. Wrapped in a paper bag it will last for 2-3 weeks in the fridge or you can freeze it. Make sure it’s well-wrapped if you don’t want everything in your fridge to smell of lemon.

Galangal
Similar in appearance to root ginger, this rhizome has a camphorous gingery smell and a pungent flavour. Use it like ginger in curries or in fish or shellfish recipes. In India it’s been used both as a halitosis remedy and an aphrodisiac.

Asafoetida
The gum exuded by the root of the herb, Ferula, it’s high in sulphur and smells very bad! Fortunately this smell dissipates during cooking leaving a garlicky-onion taste. It’s been used in India for curries and pickles, and for medicinal purposes for a very long time. Members of the Brahmin and Jain castes are forbidden to eat onions or garlic so the addition of asafoetida to their food provides an alternative source of flavour. Use in minute quantities.

Cassia
Comes in bark or bud form. The bark is similar to cinnamon and is often sold as the same. The buds are dried unripe fruit; they look a little like cloves. Both bud and bark have a warm, sweet spicy taste. The bark is very hard – almost impossible to crush – and is used whole in dishes and removed before serving. If your recipe specifies ground cassia it’s better to buy it ready-ground. While cinnamon is used primarily for sweet dishes, cassia adds a familiar warmth to robust main dishes. Cassia is a constituent of Chinese 5 spice mix.

Behind the Food Crisis: Rising Expenses Only Part of the Problem

What gives with food prices? I’m tired of paying through the nose for something as basic as an apple

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Many people cite increased transportation costs and farming expenses for the increase. I buy that argument as a part of the explanation. But rising costs simply don’t account for all the markup. After all, as Tim Hartford points out in an FT column explaining why it’s a good time to be a teenager, “clothes, trainers, computer games, iPods, DVDs and even illegal drugs are all falling in price.”

Trainers are still subject to transportation and materials costs, yet their supply is steady. This NYT article, though it doesn’t address increased worldwide demand and biofuel production as factors, highlights some key issues:

Food prices didn’t rise for years. Now, prices are finally adjusting.

Call it a spastic market adjustment. Since 1980, even as trade in services and in manufactured goods has tripled, adjusting for inflation, trade in food has barely increased. Instead, for decades, food has been a convoluted tangle of restrictive rules, in the form of tariffs, quotas and subsidies.

Only a few countries are still exporting large amounts of food to the rest of the world.

At least 29 countries have sharply curbed food exports in recent months, to ensure that their own people have enough to eat.

India, Vietnam, China and 11 other countries have limited or banned rice exports. Fifteen countries, including Pakistan and Bolivia, have capped or halted wheat exports. More than a dozen have limited corn exports.

With Australia’s farm sector crippled by drought and Argentina suffering a series of strikes and other disruptions, the world is increasingly dependent on a handful of countries like Thailand, Brazil, Canada and the United States that are still exporting large quantities of food.

Past policies discouraged local farming, leading to overreliance on imports.

From Indonesia to West Africa to the Caribbean and Central America, poor countries have frequently cut farm assistance programs and lowered tariffs to balance budgets and avoid charging high prices to urban consumers. But they have found that their farmers cannot compete with imports from rich countries — imports that are heavily subsidized.

As a result, steps that could have taken place decades ago, resulting in more food for the world today, were abandoned. These included changes like irrigation schemes and new crop varieties.

The World Bank and the International Monetary Fund also frequently pressured poor countries in the 1980s and 1990s to lower tariffs and to cut farm support programs, mostly to reduce budget deficits–(leading to) negative effects on farmers in developing countries.

If nobody wants to share their food, we’re all in trouble. Countries for years have been operating off a model of world trade that advocates specializing in a few products and services for export, then importing the rest.

If a few key exporters, such as Thailand, decide to hoard, net importers like Japan feel the burn. In fact, according to the NYT, Japan and Switzerland are leading a group of food-importing nations so alarmed by restrictions that they are seeking an international agreement preventing countries from unilaterally limiting food exports.

Something needs to change in the global food market to avoid further catastrophe (people living on food aid are already being hit hard. In Haiti, for example, families are surviving on cakes made with mud.) Here are three possible solutions, per the article:

–If Japan and Switzerland get their way, international agencies like the WTO will get teeth, decreasing member sovereignty in return for guaranteeing enough food to eat.
–The NYT authors recommend countries build up better food reserves, but avoid hoarding as a national policy (the way China does with its financial reserves).
–The WTO, now in the seventh year of its Doha negotiations, is discussing slashing farming subsidies.

Increasing farming efficiencies in Africa–where people throw away excess crop yields while people around them starve to death–would be another major windfall to the world’s food supply. Motivating farmers to produce food instead of gas by nixing biofuel subsidies is another answer. Putting more resources towards sustainable farming through world agreements, even if they have teeth, would beat mass starvation.

Then, there’s the private sector. The public can help expediate the process of food security by investing in companies involved in farm redevelopment, non-edible biofuels, and alternative energy. Green isn’t just cute, it’s about having food on the table in ten years.